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Save by building your own patio

The DIY patio is limited only by available space and your imagination, and of course your budget.

Shanaka Thanapathy by Shanaka Thanapathy
10-02-2014 15:25
in at

Additional funding for your project could be gained from koala payday loans if required. While the first two factors are not susceptible to alteration through advice, it is possible to find a plethora of patio construction tips, and the best of the lot are summarised below.

Patio planning: articulating your vision

You’ll have to decide what you want to do in your new patio before you can plan how it should look. You can use a patio for container gardening, children’s play area, outdoor kitchen with dining, or all those things, and your choices will make a difference in how you design your patio.

The experts recommend not only visualising the finished space but also drawing it on graph paper, scaled to your garden space. That requires measurements (a metal tape that curls up in its own case is quite adequate for the job) and setting an equivalency for metres to graph squares, although if your garden is the size of the proverbial pocket handkerchief no one will be the wiser if you just lay the paving directly.

Depending on how large your patio will be, you may need to construct it to accommodate existing features. For example, it may be bounded on one side by a house wall or fence, it may contain an existing tree or shrub, and if there’s any drain connection you’ll need to pave around that and possibly level to it so you won’t have a sunken space in your paving.

Technical points to consider

If you like, you can consult with a professional builder who can tell you whether your patio space requires any special features, or you can assess your patio in the light of the following tips.

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Don’t let water splash on the damp proof course of your existing walls. The damp proof course is a layer of waterproof material inserted into foundation walls. Its goal is to keep moisture from rising upward and rotting the wall, and if you build your patio at too high a level rainwater will bounce upward, over the waterproof layer. To avoid that, you should level your patio at least six inches below the damp proof course, which means you’ll have to locate it and measure downward. Your patio must drain away from your house, and whether or not law in your area mandates not pushing water onto your neighbour’s property you should avoid any construction that produces that effect. There are two ways to drain a patio First, you build it with a downward slope of about 3/4 inch in each five feet, which requires you to grade the space you intend to pave. Alternately, you may find it easier to build a drainage channel or channels into your patio, which lets you direct runoff more accurately.

Preparing to build

You’ll have three layers of material: soil covered with compacted hardcore (crushed concrete), then mortar to hold your paviours or paving blocks, then the blocks themselves.

Mark your space by using pegs and string to delineate your building area. Think of the wooden pegs as an axis to add a third dimension to your layout, and mark depth on them to show you how high to make each of your three layers.

Building the patio

Prepare your ground. Clear the area to be paved, dig downward about six inches to create a bed, and spread an even layer of hardcore, between two and three inches in thickness, over the soil. Then compact the hardcore. The recommended tool for that job is called a wacker plate, and it’s described as a motorised vibratory compactor, running on petrol. You could buy a used wacker plate, or rent one if you can find a suitable deal. Some of the wacker plates on sale in the adverts were bought for only one use.

Bedding mortar. After your hardcore is compacted, add an even layer of bedding mortar, which will keep your paviours in place. That means you must lay the paviours immediately after the mortar.

Paviours. Check the pegs and strings to make sure they’re still properly aligned to the house, since you’ll place the first row next to your house wall. Leave a little space around each paviour so that you can add more mortar to fix them laterally, because they sit atop the bedding mortar. That second addition of mortar is similar to grouting for bathroom tiles. The shape of your paviours will affect how much space you should leave, and you can ask the vendor to tell you that measurement when you buy them. Note: if you buy your entire lot of paviours in one go, they will all look alike, but if you buy in two or more lots there may be variations.

Pointing mortar. That’s the name of the mortar you’ll place between your paviours, and when you grasp a handful to test it for consistency it should neither crumble (which it will do if it lacks moisture) nor ooze (which means it’s too moist). Perform your pointing carefully, wiping any excess mortar off the blocks before it dries.

Let your mortar dry and cure for at least 24 hours before using. That means keeping it free of rain, and protecting it from excessively rapid drying if you lay the patio in summer. Then enjoy your new patio!

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